Bora Aksu spring/summer 2020 collection catwalk show for LFW

This season Turkish designer Bora Aksu, a focal point on the LFW calendar, brings fashion inspired by trailblazing feminism to London Fashion Week. The collection explores the contrast between complexity and simplicity in the creation of pieces to honour Persian artist, activist and princess Taj Saltaneh.

The brand focuses on a strong juxtaposition between hard and soft materials – which, in the designer’s own words, mirror the princess’s journey to activism. This antithesis is unmistakable in the presentation of layered lace gowns in flowing silhouettes alongside stronger tailored pieces. The soft, traditionally feminine fabrics and structured shapes deliver a classically romantic, bold and strong feel to the collection.

This silhouette is elevated through the vivid, Colombian-inspired colour palette in homage to artist Maria Berrio. Powder pinks graduate to almost-neon shades, while yellows and oranges contrast with the strong reds, pinks and neutral tones of the tailored pieces.

Dark Linda Farrow glasses add a vintage feel to some of the tailored pieces, which reminds us of the princess’s suppressed and disguised self, but also promotes an idea of power and stability in holding something back.

In voluminous wafts of fabric, Aksu perfectly portrays feminine strength in combination with an ever-present softness that we might not initially expect from the collection’s source of inspiration.

Grace Walsh
Photos: Huw Jenkins