UNDERAGE spring/summer 2020 collection presentation for LFW

Underage Studios’ Spring/Summer collection, The Underage Society, is a spectacular youth rebellion on display. Designer Ying Shen, inspired by underground subcultures and groups such as The Kindred of Kibbo Kiff, presents ritualistic sensuality paired with geometric shapes and post-apocalyptic accents. The collection successfully portrays cohesive unorthodox pieces that grab attention and incite our imagination, making us picture a new world order.

There is a primary focus of flowing, see-through material throughout the outfits in the new collection. Sheer pants, cut-out shirts and sleeves create a sense of natural forms and glimpses of body. Bold and structured pieces juxtapose garments as outfits are paired with oversized stiff blazers.

Outfits are layered and some pieces feature dynamic prints. The colour palette throughout the collection is cohesive and predominantly portrays warm or neutral tones, which standout against the set background’s smoke-like figures.

Each makeup-less model is adorned with shoes that look as if they are melting into the ground, except for one. The model, standing on an altar of fire barefoot, is the focal point of the presentation. Draped in red fabric, with silver jewels on her head, she boldly stands out against the white and black backdrop.

Although Ying Shen’s silhouettes are recognisable, the layered and creative combination of materials creates a refreshing and young feel throughout her collection. It is a celebration of body and gender, and a story of youth challenging social norms. The flowing forms, reminiscent of old and ritualistic groups, paired with sharp colours and lines that give the garments a futuristic feel, break expectations of traditional wear and emit originality.

Emma-Jane Betts
Photos: Andrei Grosu