Trattoria Brutto in Clerkenwell: “A tasty trip to Tuscany”

Busy, low-lit and colourful, upon crossing the threshold of Trattoria Brutto, all memories of distant transport interchanges and city stress are swiftly melted away. We enter a traditional Italian restaurant, complete with checked tablecloths, old-fashioned frames on the walls, and solid wooden furniture. Russell Norman is the British chef who initiated a movement with Polpo, bringing an unpretentious and traditional but chic dining experience to the narrow venues of central London, and delivering truly Italian taste that can also be enjoyed in small, sharing portions at the counter. With his latest venture, Norman transports his guests to the radiant land of Tuscany.

The place is tucked away in one of the small allies of Islington, between Farringdon Station and Smithfield Market. The English translation for “brutto” is “ugly”. As one of the dessert’s names reveals (Brutto ma Buono e Gelato), “ugly but good” is the Italian way of challenging the visitor to ignore appearances for the sake of goodness. A dazzling butterfly of flavour emerges from the rough cocoon on the plate here. In addition, “trattoria” refers to a type of eatery that is far from a fine-dining temple. So, presented with these expository coordinates, isn’t surprising that there’s a one-page menu for everything: starters, first courses (mostly dominated by pasta dishes, averagely priced at around £12), second courses and desserts. Alongside this, there is a more indulgent wine list, available by the glass, and featuring Italian (for the most part) and French labels, with waiters on hand to recommend further options by the bottle too

The cocktails are an appropriate beginning for the dinner. Sidecar mixes Vecchia Romagna, cointreau and lemon for a tingling and deliciously zesty drink. The Clerkenwell Boy – named after the food influencer who inhabits the area – provides smoother sips, with a base of Tanqueray gin and refreshing touches of prosecco and cucumber. The improvised aperitivo is completed a couple of snack starters. The Pinzimonio – crudités to dip in olive oil and lemon – is a light and healthy choice. On the other hand, there are deep-fried dough ball “cuddles”: Coccoli are filled with stracchino (a creamy cheese) and prosciutto, for a gratifying mini sandwich.

The Rabbit Pappardelle makes the mouth water simply by reading its name, although when it arrives it’s a bit on the dry side. It’s difficult to contain a certain disappointment when, once seated on the panoramic stool at the counter at around 7.30pm on a Tuesday night, the board on the wall announces that the Florentine T-Bone Steak (obviously the most in-demand speciality) is already finished. As a meaty alternative, the Sliced Rare Beef is delicious: perfectly cooked, medium-rare at the centre, with each slice framed by a thin band of juicy fat, and accompanied by chunky roasted potatoes.

Characterised by a similar intensity of flavours, the Roasted Squash with Borlotti Beans satisfyingly fills the mouth, with the salsa verde exquisitely topping every morsel. The red wines we pair with the dishes serve two contrasting palettes, each equally pleasant: a Rosso di Montalcino Conti Costanti (2016) and a Chateau Grand Pey Lescours, Grand Cru Saint-Emilion (2011).

A real treat is the Tiramisu, spongy and creamy at the right point. Multiple textures are pulled together in the Brutto ma Buono e Gelato (the Ugly but Good): chewy hazelnut meringue cookies are matched with ice cream. It’s a refreshing ending. At this point, the Vecchia Romagna Brandy liqueur makes a second appearance, next to a shot of Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, although the shelf offers various other gems from everywhere across the Italian regions, including a Liquore Strega.

It’s wonderful to see a newly opened restaurant so busy during the week, and the genuine flavour encountered along the journey at the table (or, as in our case, at the counter) validates the crowded register. Some delays and the shortage of a key dish are hiccups in an otherwise smooth, tasty trip to Tuscany, from a stool near Farringdon Station.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Ambra Vernuccio

To book a table at Trattoria Brutto, 35-37 Greenhill Rents London EC1M 6BN, call 020 4537 0928 or visit their website here.