Manthan in Mayfair: “Courageous and successfully so: bravo, chef”

As an Indian person who has grown up with Indian food, the dining experience of the subcontinent has never been sexy. For me, it’s always been about hands digging into bowls, a medley of curries slopped onto plates, melding grains of rice with one’s fingers and sinking into a seat, defeated, whilst pondering another helping. Far from haute cuisine. My experience at Manthan was rather different – but enjoyably so.

Firstly, it’s in Mayfair – seductive area in itself with a high price tag associated with every metre of real estate. Brilliantly, though, the prices here are rather reasonable, averaging £10 for a starter and £15 for a main. Interiors are slick: a slim space offers seating on either side and a low-lit bar tucked away at the back. Dark wooden flooring, soft lighting, velvet booths and shades of peacock blue contribute to a sensuous ambiance – foreshadowing, perhaps, the oncoming titillation of the tastebuds. 

Service is friendly, if a little flappy, but growing pains are expected considering the newness of the restaurant. Kutir owner and ex-Gymkhana and Jamavar chef Rohit Ghai launched Manthan only a month ago. And his menu is a love letter to the kind of food he knows – with a contemporary twist, of course. 

We start our meal with two cocktails, the Sanam and the Menaka (which includes mezcal). Both arrive beautiful and artistically decorated with thoughtful touches, inspiring many a photo. The Menaka is fruity and sweet, with a smokey undertone from the agave liquor that seeps through, and the Sanam is just as delightful.

Next, we’re served the Ram Ladoo and Ghati Masala Prawns. The former is a well-known street food snack from Delhi: moog daal balls with shavings of radish. It’s enjoyably sweet and sour with sticky tamarind, mint and bursts of pomegranate seeds. The prawns are one of those dishes that look just how they taste: crispy batter-coated crustaceans gleaming orangey red with fiery gusto. The crunch here is welcome and satisfying as you make your way through waves of red chilli and fragrant citrus flavours. Despite the fire, we kept going in for more. Looking at what we’ve left behind, it’s clear these courses were made for sharing. 

When vetting the restaurant, the one dish I vowed I’d try was the Osso Bucco. What a treat to have a classic Italian favourite “desi-fied”. The lamb is well spiced and tender, while the gravy is meaty, rich and hits all the classic flavours one craves at an Indian restaurant. We count not one, not two, but four bones with holes containing small slivers of bone marrow (which I naturally fish out meticulously). The dish is a game-changer. I longingly eye up the parathas on the side, fighting my instinct to tear bits off and submerge them. Instead, I pick up the knife and fork. 

With punchy flavours of mustard and fenugreek, Sarson Chicken is not to be overshadowed. Its soft meat is succulent and flavourful, with a lovely char on the edges. The fresh little kachumber salad on the side, containing moong beans, uplifts it masterfully.

For dessert, we go for the Narangi Chocolate and Garlic Kheer – both stunningly decorated and in keeping with classic fine-dining presentation. The former is a little far removed from Indian influence, but delicious all the same, with spoonfuls of rich chocolate and candied orange – a must for Terry’s fans. The latter is contained in a brandy snap in the shape of a blooming flower. It sits on a large gold plate and is scattered with pretty rose petals and crumbled pistachio. The garlic flavour is subtle, and contributes a savoury element to counteract the sweetness of the kheer (an Indian rice pudding made with lots of saccharine jaggery).

As we bid adieu to the staff, who kindly offer us an umbrella to combat the sudden downpour, I consider my newfound admiration for Rohit Ghai. Having never visited Kutir, this is the first time I’ve knowingly tried his food. Putting Delhi street food dishes alongside a well-known Italian dish covered in Indian spices is courageous, and successfully so. And all of this in Mayfair and in opulent, sexy interior surrounds. Bravo, chef. 

Ashiana Pradhan
Photos: Virginie Viche

To book a table at Manthan, 49 Maddox Street Mayfair London W1S 2PQ, call 020 7408 2258 or visit their website here.