The Lanesborough Grill in Knightsbridge: “Classic dishes, artisanal producers and shimmering crystal chandeliers”

Dining in the Hyde Park area always exudes elegance and formality. There’s a higher level of excitement as we encounter the majestic fluted columns framing the Lanesborough’s entrance, overlooking the park. Guests are welcomed through the vintage entrance hall of the Oetker Collection’s hotel, with shimmering crystal chandeliers and Regency sofas. On the right, just before the end, a rounded arch marks the entryway into our glass-ceilinged dining room for the evening. The aesthetic of the venue, classy and with a particular antique style, is both striking and enchanting.  It may be remembered as the home of the Céleste restaurant, which offered modern French fine dining, free of pomposity. A few months into 2022, the place underwent a change on a large scale, moving to a grill style and entrusting the leading role to the experienced hands of Shay Cooper. The chef is definitely not new to the London food scene, formerly at the helm of the Bingham Hotel and then at the Goring, always bringing the restaurants stellar recognition in the Michelin Guide.

The current concept at the Lanesborough focuses on modern British cuisine, grounded on classic dishes and championing artisanal producers. The wine list also favours some of the country’s best bottles, our first glass an example: the Gusbourne Sparkling Wine Blanc de Blancs is a too-easy-to-drink sparkling wine that builds its minerality on bright chardonnay.

In terms of food, apart from a list of choices for the set menu, there is a more comprehensive selection of dishes à la carte, allowing the diner to personalise the experience. Ranging from the sea to the countryside, each section offers a variety of fish, vegetables and meat courses. The Lindisfarne Oysters are soft, and the accompanying Mignonette of Ramson, Cucumber and Ginger gives a refreshing pickled kick to the dressing. From the beginning, we want to test the strength of the kitchen’s fire with the Grilled Octopus: a single tentacle is served well seared, not charred, accompanied by a creamy white almond gazpacho and sea kale – a tasty start. Both the sea-themed courses pair brilliantly with the Still White (2020) by Hattingley, another chardonnay, with Chablis tendencies. With a touch of oak that rounds some more citrus notes, the wine features zesty flavour with a dash of honey and apple.

Moving to the mains, the Beef Wellington (for two to share) and the Dover Sole are tempting, but we are lured by another two juicy contenders. First, the Poached Native Lobster. The presentation plays on a vibrant palette of colours; succulent orange nuances meet crunchier greens, married well with the smooth purée and lemon verbena butter. Keeping in the British vein, Kit’s Coty Chardonnay (2018) goes nicely with this dish. Next, the Grilled Aged English Striploin is a tall and tender cut; the undisputed centrepiece on the plate, it’s indeed a satisfying choice. We try an untraditional pairing for this one in the Viña Gravonia, a white Rioja from López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia. Quite racy with a tannic finish, this one may not be for everyone, but it makes for an interesting contrast with the striploin. For a green side dish, the Charred Brassicas are a bouquet of soft-textured vegetables.

The dessert decision is slightly delayed by debate about how far the versions of tart and mousse will sway from the usual recipes. The Dark Chocolate Mousse is luscious bliss: light and creamy, the bitterness is counteracted by the pecan praline and a scoop of cocoa nib ice cream on top. Unexpected is the dainty and exquisite combination in the Elderflower and Strawberry Trifle, with layers of dense cream and an airy sponge as the base, finished with a golden speckle, emblematic of the preciousness moment at the end of the dinner.

Matching the classic interior with classics on the table, the Lanesborough Grill takes a robust line for their cuisine, and it’s an appetising one.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Ambra Vernuccio

To book a table at The Lanesborough Grill, The Lanesborough Grill Hyde Park Corner London SW1X 7TA, call 020 7259 5599 or visit their website here.