Pivot in Covent Garden: “British cuisine staples in wholesome gratifying portions”
A warm and intimate space welcomes guests to the first floor of 3 Henrietta Street. The townhouse, overlooking the buzzing Covent Garden piazza – no less – catches the eye for its period appearance, with an immaculate facade, carpeted wooden stairs and grand chimney, which complement the comfortable atmosphere in the main rooms. The restored building hosts two restaurants and two cafés for dining at any time of the day (or night), catering to the varying demands of the piazza. From the bottom up, we find the restaurant and bar El Ta’koy in the basement and Lilly’s Café on the ground floor. The Pivot concept, by award-winning chef Mark Greenaway, extends over two levels: on the ground floor, there’s the café/bar, and the main restaurant – where our dinner takes place – is on the first floor.
At the entrance, there’s an upholstered counter hemming the kitchen, with lots of natural light coming through the tall window on the side. The main room, painted in a lovely burgundy, is decorated with modern art, which adds dashes of colour to the setting.
Largely edging the line of tradition, the menu consists of selected staples from British cuisine, in wholesome gratifying portions, with price tags conforming to the prime location. Before anything else, a light, tasty nibble comes in the form of a warm Stottie Cake. From the North of England, this type of bread is cooked on the stovetop, producing a round that’s softer than flatbread and as compact as toast. There are both vegetarian and meat/fish dips to choose from, among which we are very satisfied by the Whipped Devon Crab Butter and the viscous Split Roasted Bone Marrow.
The Cod Croquettes feature a rich filling, with a slightly crispy outer layer, finished in lush bites with the tomato chutney. Alongside them, Grilled Langoustines are juicy and really don’t need any extra garlic and parsley butter. Colourful and refreshing are the Dressed Summer Courgettes, prepared with a beetroot dressing.
Like the food, the wine list keeps it short but with nicely assorted options. We accompany our mains with a crisp AB Valley Vinho Verde and a smoother Rioja, Hacienda El Ternero Blanco Fermentado en Barrica. These whites pair well with the upcoming fish courses, cutting through the buttery mouthfuls.
Pan-Roasted Seabass, on jersey royals and chive butter sauce, and Roasted Cod Fillet, on a bed of courgette roundels and tartare sauce, are both very tender and flavoursome. From Charred Hispi Cabbage to Dauphinoise Potatoes, and Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes to Braised Roscoff Onions, there are interesting sides to choose from in the vegetable section. The Raspberry Pavlova provides a comfortable ending, hiding a thick lemon cream at its core, and finished at the table with a generous dose of velvety caramel.
Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Virginie Viche (except header)
To book a table at Pivot, 3 Henrietta Street London WC2E 8LU, call or visit their website here.
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