Lusin in Mayfair: “Some absolute triumphs that do the nation proud”

What do many of us shamefully think of when we think of Armenia? Yes, that’s right: bodacious curves, impossibly symmetrical faces and long, Pocahontas-like hair – namely, the Kardashian sisters. But no more. Armenia is a unique country, with incredible cuisine and a rich history. An ancient nation, it was the first to adopt Christianity and has six UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Even the bread of Armenia, lavash, is on United Nation’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. 

Of course, I know nothing of this as I turn up at the solid, gilded door. What I do know is that Lusin has gained popularity in Saudi Arabia, and has taken up residence in Mayfair to bring upscale Armenian food to London. Hospitality entrepreneur and founder of Mira Foods, Mazen Amulgbel, has brought together his travels to Lebanon and Armenia as inspiration, and enlisted chef Marcel Ravin, of two-Michelin-star Blue Bay in Monaco, to curate the London menu. 

As we enter, we’re surrounded by familiar Mayfair restaurant hallmarks: elegant, perfectly uniform waitresses; slick, weaving service; and the clinking of expensive glasses. And, yet, the tuff stone sourced from the Armenian mountains, pillars with handmade carvings and rustic archways pull it all back to the restaurant’s roots. 

We settle down to the meal with a pomegranate juice, content in the knowledge that this jewel-like wonder provides a plethora of health benefits. We’re served a selection of dips alongside puffed-up and pillowy lavash: hummus that is as creamy and smooth as condensed milk, beautifully swirled and dotted with long pine nuts, luscious, with the perfect level of tahini and lemon; a yoghurty Mutabal, chunky with bite-sized cubes of smoky aubergine and sprinkled with flavourful chives for a point of difference; the Muhammara is one of the nicest I’ve ever had – a red pepper dip with tang, a slight bit of spice, crunchy walnuts and a concentrated hit of cumin. Fattoush is served in a cup of iceberg lettuce, and is as satisfyingly lemony and crunchy as it should be. The Kibbeh – balls of meat, bulgur and nuts – is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. It doesn’t sing with flavour as much as it should, but is uplifted by a not-so-generous swizzle of delightfully sour pomegranate molasses. 

The star of the starters, on first glance, appears as mini cinnamon rolls. I pop one into my mouth, and tilt my head in puzzlement. I know the flavour: it’s sujuc, a dry, spicy and fermented sausage, wrapped up with soft pastry. The rolled morsels are deliciously meaty, this time generously coated in pomegranate molasses and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds.

We receive our mains, which include a jarring-looking dish of kebab meat covered in a startling crimson sauce, boldly named The Famous Cherry Kebab. We begin, tentatively, only to find that the flavours are not as aggressive as they appear, but balanced with Christmassy spices – nutmeg and cinnamon, a hint of cherry and the earthiness of pine nuts. 

I know the mixed grill is something to behold before I even try a piece of meat. You can just tell, with dottings of red and green in the meat, that it’s going to be packed with flavour. One bite tells me I’m right. When meat is marinated this beautifully, it lingers and is as soft as it should be. The lamb chop deserves a call-out, with perfectly rendered and slightly crispy fat and lots of soft meat to sink your teeth into. 

Mayfair would not be Mayfair without a nod to truffle. That unmistakable smell is always in the air when there’s money to spend – and who’s complaining? The Red Pilaf with Truffle arrives in the shape of a moon (which translates to lusin in Armenian), a playful nod to the name of the restaurant and a delightful homage to luxury’s finest ingredient. Meanwhile, the batata harra (called Spicy Potato on the menu) looks unassuming, but tastes marvellous: it’s subtle but garlicky, melts in the mouth and stomps with heat. 

We have three desserts, two of which don’t totally scream of Armenia – a pomegranate eclair and a lemon meringue pie – but are perfectly presented and well executed. The honey cake, however, is a knockout. Layers of honey biscuit hide honey-drenched cream; it’s topped with actual honeycomb and the very underrated physalis. 

Some misses, some unabashed Mayfair-style additions and some absolute triumphs that do the nation proud at Lusin, this is food that not only intrigues, but educates on a lesser-known land. Careful consideration has gone into injecting authenticity into the menu, but I’m doubtful that the more sumptuous elements of Lusin are just as authentic. But, hey, we’re in Mayfair after all. 

Ashiana Pradhan
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at Lusin, 16 Hay Hill Mayfair London W1J8NY, call 07384 339370 or visit their website here.