DIVA at the V&A

The V&A’s summer blockbuster exhibition explores and celebrates a powerful word and concept: that of the diva. Originally from the Latin word for goddess, the term became widely used in the 19^th century for opera singers whose talents made them appear otherworldly to audiences. Like anything predominantly female, it picked up some negative undertones in later years, but has now enjoyed an unstoppable resurgence.

Act I is devoted to the history of the word, with costumes and objects from women who pioneered freedom for themselves through creativity: early opera stars, actresses of the Victorian stage, stars of the nascent film industry, such as Clara Bow and Mary Pickford, through to Hollywood’s heyday. No glittering stone is left unturned. There is the melodramatic poster from Sunset Boulevard – probably the most “diva” film ever (an ageing screen star with only a passing acquaintance with reality puts a few bullets in an unlucky young writer and power-expresses for the cameras once more). There is a costume from Mildred Pierce, all shoulders and power pussy bow, the film for which Joan Crawford finally clasped a much designed-upon Oscar. Crawford is the epitome of a diva, a rags-to-riches story whose deranged devotion to her star fascinates as much as her work ever did. The same mystique surrounds Marilyn Monroe, who is presented here both in her incandescent screen presence, wriggling through a train with a ukelele like the incarnation of joy, and in a sombre portrait taken not long before her death. The black fringed dress from Some Like It Hot is displayed here. Notably, there is also a script from Monroe’s breakout hit, Niagara, in which she has annotated, in precise capitals written in cerise ink, the name of her character in the film with the name of the character she would play for the rest of her life.

There are judiciously chosen film clips playing, depicting those whose costumes are displayed. A silent reel shows Josephine Baker, whose dancing looks so fun you can’t help but smile. A later sequence includes Mae West indelibly remarking, “When I’m good, I’m very good, but when I’m bad I’m better”, and Elizabeth Taylor, imperious as Cleopatra, telling a flabbergasted Roman diplomat Richard Burton to kneel. “I asked it of Julius Caesar, I demand it of you!” she blasts. And such is the ethos of the diva, encapsulated in one bold eyeshadow look and the igniting of an incendiary love affair for the ages.

Act II is the balcony, which is packed with contemporary costumes. Fantasy abounds. There’s the John Galliano beaded Pope dress, worn by Rihanna to the Met Gala, Janelle Monae’s exemplary “vulva” pants, Elton John’s Sun King feathered fancy for this 50^th, and an Issey Miyake fibreglass bodice – like liquid emerald – made for Grace Jones. Many are the work of designer Bob Mackie, whose forthright “naked dress” style has been revolutionary in stage costume ever since Cher first slinked on the red carpet leaving just enough to the imagination. There’s a glorious 1977 design for Mackie’s Flame Dress for Tina Turner, displayed underneath the real thing. All the expected divas are accounted for, from Beyonce and Lady Gaga to Shirley Bassey and Barbra Streisand, but there are some more unexpected inclusions like Bjork, PJ Harvey and Siouxsie Sioux.

Curator Kate Bailey has created an immersive experience, with headphones that play music associated with the display one is looking at. The soundtrack has been designed by Gareth Fry and contains nearly 80 pieces of music, starting with Maria Callas in Bellini’s tragic opera, Norma, and including Dusty Springfield’s You Don’t Own Me and Rihanna’s Work, to name but a few. The collection is also available to listen to on the website. Viewers leave to Diana Ross’s I’m Coming Out and can’t help but feel energised by all the talent on display. In another nice touch, the arches of the atrium are projected with constellations of the divas’ names, with occasional starry-eyed clips, such Kate Bush’s haunting Wuthering Heights and Prince dancing.

DIVA is a meticulously put together exhibition that takes glamour as seriously as it deserves.

Jessica Wall

DIVA is at the V&A from 24^th June until 7^th April 2024. For further information visit the exhibition’s website here.