NYFW S/S’14 – Tadashi Shoji: the joy of life

Themed “Sweet Liberation”, accentuating confidence and femininity, Tadashi Shoji presented his spring/summer 2014 collection this Thursday at The Stage at Lincoln Center, which kicks off New York Fashion Week.  Inspired by flight, the materials of the collection were airy tulle and organza silk in prominently atmospheric hues – lavender, ivory and frosted jade – along with a traditional spring palette of peach, lemon, and pale pink.

Continuing the theme of breezy delicacy, eye-catching details included lace-cuffed tops, ostrich-feathered fringe on gowns and long skirts, and shimmering bodices and cropped coats accented by embroidered sequins and crystals.

Bold fabrics were paired with simple, traditional silhouettes from sleeveless gowns to A-line dresses, including a striking keyhole neckline peplum gown.  Shoji’s pairing of cropped tops and more voluminous, structured skirts and dresses again articulated the collection’s focus on flowing movement.

Many of the gowns were detailed with distinctive geometric patterns of re-embroidered lace panels over sheer tulle, highlighting the interplay of structure and elegant fragility.

Most striking was the collection’s textured play with light and transparency from the aforementioned re-embroidered geometric patterns to tulle overlays on top of coloured organza gowns and neoprene tops.  The wispy tulle patterns floated above fields of colour, which effected a sense of depth that would have been lost if embroidered directly to the underlying silk.  The diaphanous “illusion skirt” – the show’s most triumphant piece – was most emblematic of Shoji’s emphasis on density and transparency.

Following the show, Tadashi Shoji bowed to ovations from the capacity crowd attended by J. Alexander among other industry notables.  As always, the designer’s elegant, yet simple, gowns were striking without trending towards the theatrical.  The ethereal, lighter-than-air quality of texture and colour successfully brought to life the collection’s theme of feminine joie de vivre.

Mikael Lidfors