Thakoon: 10 years in fashion

Taking inspiration from Cecil Beaton’s vintage photography, Thakoon debuted his first collection in September 2004, a 10-piece assemblage of “delicate deconstructions”. Drawing on the imagery, Charles James-dressed debutantes took influence on the message to be conveyed by this line. Putting together the pieces within two months and surmounting the limitations present with the early stage of a career, Thakoon cheated inexpensive fabric to create luxurious items. Using jeweled embroidery and quilted pearls, the detailing combated the flatness of the fabric and created masterful finishing.

From business school turned fashion writer, then from page to platform – Thakoon is a Jack-of-all-trades and a master of one. A decade later and established, the designer marks the anniversary with a full line of handbags. Understanding that to a woman a bag is potentially more part of the wardrobe than her clothes, Thakoon wanted to continue the story of his brand through layering.

Commending his designer icon Rei Kawakubo, Thakoon’s career has been lead by good example. Carving a niche and sustaining its truth with conviction has been an ideology he perceived from her, and has since maintained. He stated: “This is my time to shine and see what I can do—so fuck everyone else and let’s make this happen.”

Passionate about how to manipulate materials and their fold, Thakoon has driven the idea of femininity through fabric. As his career has matured, a more relaxed and bohemian quality has been introduced – reflecting the confidence in design. The designer has ensured such popularity through the brand’s wearability with cuts that create audacious not outrageous silhouettes.

Barneys New York’s birthday present to Thakoon was an exclusive capsule collection. Including cuts from previous seasons reimagined and recreated, the 12-piece ensemble brings together items both important to the designer and to the customers of Barneys. With bold prints and presenting one of Thakoon’s favourites, the Embellished Peony Dress, the collection is personal and contemplative.

“I never like to reflect back on things, it’s so not me. But ten years! My god. It goes by so fast.” Perceiving the 10-year mark as the inception of a second phase, Thakoon Panichgul has big aspirations for his brand. With hopes to enter the world of fragrance, home fashion and the opening of stores across the world, the boy aims big.

Hanah Draper

To view the full collection visit here.