Anthony Vaccarello catwalk show report | PFW S/S 2016

Anthony Vaccarello is known for creating clothes that are sexy in the most shameless, high-octane way imaginable.

This show, then, was essentially what one might expect from a Vaccarello collection – incredibly short, asymmetrically-structured miniskirts were characterised by the daringly high slits for which Vaccarello has become known. Elsewhere, sheer or semi-sheer shirts or shift dresses revealed the figure beneath whilst at the same time distracting from it by the use of golden embellishment.

Also present were Vaccarello’s customary cut-outs, slicing across bodices or eating into the fabric at the sides to create waist-defining silhouettes. Indeed, some of these pieces seemed to be more cut-out than material, held together by chunky gold rings that echoed the round buttons that appeared on military-style jackets.

The detailing on those tailored jackets was also mirrored in gold additions to cross-body bags – the first bags that Vaccarello has ever sent out on to his runway.

However, as well as the daring styles that we are used to seeing from the Belgian-Italian designer, there was also evidence that he is beginning to explore new avenues. Perhaps inspired by his other job at Versus Versace (where he took his first solo bow in London a couple of weeks ago), this collection began to introduce a series of distinctive decorative motifs into its designs. Tattoo-inspired prints appeared across white cotton button-downs, whilst a striking close-up image of Anja Rubik’s face appeared across t-shirts and tank dresses, constructed from clusters of sparkling studs.

Vaccarello also introduced denim to his runway, in the form of extremely high-waisted pants accessorised with a belt that will probably only appeal to women of a very particular body type. Perhaps the loose-fitting boyfriend jeans will prove more commercially popular.

Overall, this was a typically strong collection from the designer with plenty of his go-to techniques. However, it was nice to see him throwing some new ingredients into the mix – it will be interesting to see if he develops these further over the next few seasons.

Grace Cain