This was a first for Hong Kong-based brand Lantern Sense as AW16 marked their debut at London Fashion Week – surely a daunting prospect, but one that apparently didn’t faze design-duo Trevor Ng and Lala Yang as they presented a quirky, effortlessly cool set of clothes.
Providing the inspiration for the collection was the work of artist Mark Rothko, and the commercial grunge movement of the early 1990s – apparently unconnected themes, but the designers saw Rothko and grunge as sharing the same nonchalant attitude and dissatisfaction with life. Indeed, it is this thrown together, I-don’t-care aesthetic which gives this collection its effortlessly cool vibe. Neatly tailored box-shaped separates echo the shapes of Rothko’s work and keep the clothes looking clean and simple, despite their complexity in terms of texture and colour. Patent leather and shearling appear alongside delicate knits and sequinned designs, with muted tones of grey, cream, peach and beige being offset by the richer red, burgundy and brown hues.
Some of the highlights of the collection came in the form of vividly hued separates, such as a pair of trousers, sliced in half and held together by oversized safety pins. Meanwhile, the floral accessories provide a direct reference to the work of Mark Rothko, who often used flowers in his work to express emotion and the human experience.
The designers apparently chose to show this collection in London because it is the city they feel best conveys their ‘design ethos’, with its multicultural heritage and chaotic yet beautiful spirit. Indeed, there’s no denying that their innovative, eclectic creations are well-suited to London – it will be good to see the direction this young brand takes over the next few seasons.
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