Alexis Mabille autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show | PFW

Alexis Mabille’s new collection is the cat’s pajamas. His title, Life Is a Catwalk, reflected his desire to highlight the link between fashion, femininity and a cat’s languid sensuality. He excelled, with a collection that was widely varied, but also cohesive and surprisingly sophisticated.

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Mabille showed huge similarities to his pre-fall show, with the same emphasis on silk pajamas, gold nautical buttons and navy paired with florals, although this time far more dusky. The velvet smoking jackets, tuxedo theme and casually luxe dressing that we saw in his SS16 couture collection were also prominent, but this time many featured hot Paris pink and were styled far more casually.

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Athleisure also took the stage, with a few looks featuring jersey sweatshirts, one with a cheeky velvet cat motif, crêpe jogging trousers and t-shirts. A stand-out was a gorgeously chic pyjama ensemble, cut from the inky blue and black “sports stripes” crêpe that played a huge role in the collection, with a peignoir-cum-tuxedo jacket and velvet cuffs.

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Alongside the pops of fuschia and navy and black stripes were the playful cat motifs, peeking their heads out every so often. As well as blue “cat-mouflage” chambray, there was the cat-kiss dress, in an ebony point d’esprit tulle, with the playful flourish of two velvet kissing cats embroidered on the bodice. These outfits were accessorised with statement quartz jewellery, slabs of blue agate as necklaces and rings, and steel blue tassel hair extensions, fringing being another key player on the catwalk.

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Interestingly, the designer’s trademark bow only appeared a few of times, worked into a scarf or as a subtle detail on a belt, proof that the maximalist is on a journey and adopting a more refined chic. His new collection is opulently casual, elegant and surprisingly wearable. Purrfect.

Catherine Phipps

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