Academy of Art University spring/summer 2017 collection catwalk show for NYFW

On what could have been arguably the most hot, humid September night in New York City’s history, the Academy of Art University presented the collections of 13 of their students. It’s the university’s 20^th participation and each successive year has gained a reputation as a showcase of innovative talent. The evening was filled with the anticipatory energy of tomorrow’s fashion ingénues.

The design students hailed from all over the world, each bringing a different vision, style and energy to their collections, which showed a handful of looks. In  the seven womenswear and three menswear collections, there was a clear understanding of what it meant to be inventive, original, and future-oriented

Lindsey Trueman, hailing from Canada cleverly used repurposed grain sacks as long flowing shirt dresses and overcoats, which looked just as couture as any silk gown on the runway before it.

Nina Nguyen Hui, who opened the show, drew inspiration from sea corals in nature, which was reflected heavily in her color use in embroidered dresses and jackets.

Jing Qian of China, a former intern of Alexander McQueen, used eco-friendly pigments in his intricately gathered blouses and split skirts, featuring an almost Pollock-inspired painting scheme.

In addition to being eco-friendly and forward-thinking, other designers in the showcase were purely inspired by technique. Natalya Robinson, of Russia, explored geometry and draping in her collection of womens’ knitwear. Ben Ellis showed sharp men’s’ tailoring, in a collection of sustainable denim and jersey garments, forgoing classic lines for more the more abstract. Carly Dean, MFA in textile design, created multi-layered fabrics using the burnout technique.

Though the list of designers goes on, the incredible talent and vision of these students is indicative of beautiful and imaginative new trends to come to the world of fashion. It was clear to see why the pre-show clamor reached such volume: the grassroots trends initiated in the fresh young minds of these budding designers is rife for inspiration ahead of its time. It was truly a showcase of the innovative and pioneering spirit that Fashion Week maintains at its core: a breeding ground for the future with reverence for the past.

Alex Zarlengo
Photos: Jeenah Moon