Manuel Facchini spring/summer 2017 collection presentation for LFW

In another nod (see also Phoebe English SS17) towards highly conceptualised “fashion art”, Manuel Facchini presented his SS17 collection, Underwater Couture, in a dynamic presentation at the BFC Presentation Space. 

This season Facchini has drawn, as is his custom, from sculpture, lifting from Ralph Rapson Hall’s 2013 Centennial Chromagraph that “illusion of mutability” mixed with curves to maintain a feminine softness. The collection, a series of gorgeous organza and silk gowns, captures this well; layered, sheet organza lends dresses a fluidity and movement that echoes the rippling effect of the Centennial Chromagraph’s segments.

Facchini has deliberately used a limited palette in this collection to emphasise that aquatic feel; aqua green, coral and black are either the sole colour of a gown, or blend together like silk paints marbling in water. On closer inspection, the ornate patterns on a bodice also amplify this underworld effect. Fishtails and rippling, wave-like segments that dissolve into seams, have been embroidered into dresses.

The set itself features a rotating platform, on which two models stand either side of an oversized mirror. Both have identical hair and makeup, giving the impression of a single woman standing before the mirror, and both wear the same wide-legged black trousers. However, in a reference to his underlying message of adaptation and change, Facchini has created two different aquatic-feel shirts. One model wears a sleeveless piece, adorned with ruffles across the chest that evoke a fin-like movement, the other wears a long-sleeved shirt, where ruffles are limited to the sleeves only.

The collection is an exquisite use of colour and shape and successfully conveys Facchini’s message of continuous transformation in a sophisticated and wearable manner.

Katie Dean
Photos: Filippo L’Astorina

For further information about Manuel Facchini visit here.