Roberta Einer autumn/winter 2017 collection presentation for LFW

Roberta Einer used her autumn/winter 2017 collection to further explore her take on maximalist luxury, delivering garments inspired by Art Deco architecture, Portuguese poster art, nature studies of moths and butterflies, and Fado singer Amalia Rodrigues.

This huge pool of inspiration felt surprisingly grounded by silhouettes and colours taken from the 1940s. In fact, at first glance, the colours felt restrained and muted: earthy tones interspersed by terracotta, teal and soft rose. Only upon closer inspection did the maximalism really show itself.

On a deconstructed tennis court, models lounged in sun chairs that contrasted pleasantly with the elaborate garments. Every single item was so intricate and detailed that they all deserve a mention, but the undeniable standout pieces were a tiered dress, just brushing the ankle, with a modern floral print in green, pink and red hues, as well as a mouthwatering hairy bomber jacket in rose with metallic sleeves and butterfly embroidery.

A rose gold metallic gown was grounded by an emerald bustier top, and a seemingly out of place sweatshirt was brought right back in with a long, military style coat, featuring a heavily embellished yoke. Fully sequined gowns with glass art patterns, embroidered blouses, and even embellished socks, all accompanied by an atmospheric soundtrack that transported the audience to the Atlantic coast.

The foray into 3D fabric manipulation was perhaps that step too far – even if the gorgeous turquoise jumper fitted in beautifully. It will be interesting to see if Einer will take a step towards restraint, or decide to explore maximalism to its fullest potential in her next collection.

Teresa Kroenung
Photos: Filippo L’Astorina

For further information about Roberta Einer visit here.