Roberts | Wood autumn/winter 2017 collection presentation for LFW

Roberts Wood’s delivered an atmospheric “journey of meta-state” AW17 collection presentation on the third day of London Fashion Week in the British Fashion Council presentation space.

A sea of black umbrellas surrounded diverse models displaying the new collection, exploring “the every day and the meaning we attribute to objects and events”. Ambient sounds gathered momentum and lighting subtly cranked up to a glare then both simultaneously simmered back down to a soft glow. In the way, the multitude of umbrellas created a new landscape from the repetition of a functional, ordinary object, so the designs were characterized by a repetition of folds and layers, eventually resulting in something news.

The pieces were simultaneously mathematically precise in their use of recurring patterns yet found beauty in the moments of subversion, chaos, and surreality. Repeatedly folded and tucked silks created voluminous ruffles in black, silver, cobalt blue and burnt orange. The excess of fabric in places then melted to a transparency that delicately hugged the skin.

Heavy layers of protruding long shirts under wools and padded twills were contrasted with the sensual exposure of breast through colored sheer fabrics in neighboring looks. Tailored coats gave way to a flurry of gathered fabric while smooth dress line hems ended in raw edges.Ankle boots in practical waterproof fabric interrupted the delicacy and decadence of silks.

A collaboration with textile print studio SC Design Lab produced digitally printed striped fabrics, subtly distorted and faded, with lines overlaid in alternating directions to create new patterns. Founder Katie Roberts-Wood, having already received numerous awards for her technically innovative and visually striking designs, has delivered on the distinctive aesthetic synonymous with the luxury concept brand: assertive femininity that plays with conventions of construction, use of textiles and silhouettes. A bold, innovative collection.

Sarah Bradbury
Photos: Krish Nagari