Rohmir’s AW17 show is titled El Castillo Secreto: this magical journey was an exploration of Spanish-inspired clothing through flamenco. The show included a mesmerising flamenco performance, followed by a sea of metallic brocade coats and dresses, black matador hats, velvet prints, pussy bows, puffed pirate shirts, red fur linings and fringing. It was a new take on traditionally Spanish clothing, and could be seen worn by contemporary women.
The show started with a video, setting the context in Spain, with the model running through greenery and standing on top of a medieval castle, showing how the references used in the show date back centuries. This made it feel meaningful and even emotional, as the flamenco dance that followed was heartfelt and intense.
There were combinations of black, grey and mustard that felt modern, combined with Spanish gold trims and feather details to add an element of old school glamour. The standout pieces were the gowns, blazers and ruffled capes, and the Spanish music gave the collection a clear direction, as well as appearances from the flamenco dancer. The collection was rich in references, the amount of looks and different prints, but with the common theme it all made sense.
Everything was elaborate and shiny but it didn’t feel like it was in vain; it all linked back to Spanish heritage and gave the collection integrity. The gowns were so intricate that they could only be seen in high-end balls and red carpet events, but other pieces such as the flared trousers and coat in matching jacquard prints could be worn everyday, while the cocktail dresses at more informal occasions.
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