Qasimi autumn/winter 2018 collection catwalk show for LFWM

“Checks unify people,” says Qasimi talking about the inspiration behind his 2018 autumn/winter collection. “You can find this pattern everywhere, in Bhutan, India, Japan, Middle East, England, Canada, all over the parallels,” the designer explains, “It is the way to bring people together.”

A wide exploration of the story of checks and how they demonstrate a special interconnectivity is at the centre of the show. Two types in particular, gingham and madras, feature often on the outfits.

Working on comfortable silhouettes, the designer offers garments that unite the conventional with a fresher approach to the past and to the different cultures around the world – African and Asian above all. Copper brown and burgundy are the predominant colour choices. Extremely dark nuances are avoided, whereas sparks of neon yellow and orange occasionally prevail on the palette.

The dresses reflect an idea of protection, due mostly to the heavy materials used. From alpaca wool to thick cashmere, the creations, easy to wear, appear as a good defence against the low temperatures.

Chunky and voluminous, the loose trousers are always matched with white trainers. One of the most interesting elements, though, are the cropped jackets: apparently all similar, they actually add to every figure an original touch, whether due to the checks – large or small – or to the different positioning of the fabric stripes along them.

The pieces of leather in excess from the belt hang elegantly on the left sides, together with spare laces. More often, however, the outfit is accompanied by a fine blanket decorated with stripes inspired by the people of Basotho. Zoe Keller’s hands are behind the custom drawings of a still life – fruits and fauna from the Middle East – and wildlife animals.

The words “amen” and “blessed”, alluding to themes of existentialism , appear alone in bold at the centre of a couple of sweaters. Qasimi mixes different cultures and their traditions with the urban attitude of the modern men.

Photos: Huw Jenkins