Bora Aksu autumn/winter 2018 collection catwalk show for LFW

Since his debut at London Fashion Week in 2003, Bora Aksu has previously received four consecutive New Generation Awards for his romantic pieces that have an almost sinister dark twist. This season’s collection channels masculine shapes, inspired by Margaret Ann Bulkley, a respected female surgeon from the Georgian period who could only practice if disguised as a man.

Aksu’s AW collection highlighted his favour of opposing simplistic elements with that of richness and grandeur, with layering being a key feature – especially of tailored pieces. This structuring was most particularly evident through an ensemble of a structured navy tailored blazer with white piping, paired with a classic white shirt accessorised with a large bow which was paired with a flowing navy skirt in contrasting textures and black and white laced boots. Whilst the theme of royalty and opulence was most noticeable in a rich ochre layered floor length dress.

Combining elements of intrigue with seduction, the theme itself counteracts the elegant nature of the garments. Colour palettes of black, white, red and navy diverged with pastel blues, lilacs and powder pinks to highlight the existence of romance within the bold. A long navy dress, embroidered with motifs in red and blue, was cinched at the waist with a structured cropped jacket that contained large red panels. With recurring design motifs featuring on the jacket and the dress, the notion of opulence was presented through the addition of a silver brooch. This particular ensemble highlighted a notion prevalent throughout the collection itself which was rich, voluminous silhouettes.

Layered dresses, elements of flowers, bow motifs and material like silk, tulle and organza adds to not only to the theme of femininity but add a notion of romanticism. Femininity was also a big design feature through the collection, evident through a black and white tiered layered dress with a Victoriana inspired collar, and also a short layered lilac dress with panels of lace and tulle, constructed and pleated to exemplify the soft fabrics and delicate nature of the feminine form. These were offset by the more masculine looks meant to replicate the constructed gender of Bulkley, in velvets, cashmere wools and boyish tailoring. Striped pant-suit inspired pieces in black, red and white act as the foil to the paler shades that came before them.

The traditional nuances of gender construction through fashion is at the forefront of the line, experimenting with the female body to construct and manipulate its perception through cleverly tailored cocoon coats, printed dresses and experimental layering.

Chloe Davies
Photos: Kimberley Larmouth