Bianca Saunders autumn/winter 2019 collection presentation for LFWM

Bianca Saunders’s AW19 collection, entitled “Unravelling”, explores the feminine side of the black male identity in the expanse of their most intimate setting: the bedroom. Saunders chose this location in order to emphasise her subjects’ wholesome state in a place where they feel most open and able to self-express themselves through different garments, patterns and styles.

Feeling that the world is oversaturated with representations of a hypermasculine black male, Saunders delves into a world of vulnerability – relying on twisted seams, shirring and elasticated techniques – continuing her AW18 narrative, which examined the sexuality and gender expectations of London’s young men.

In her previous project, “Personal Politics”, Saunders found fascination in the way males expressed their sexuality: always afraid of discussing it in an incorrect way, the men relied mainly on styling and silent behaviour. The designer sustained this feeling throughout the AW19 presentation using modern fabrics such as nylon, leather, cotton and jersey, which were manipulated so as to resemble the comfort and commodity of one’s home.

Saunders emphasised a neutral colour palette of black, white and grey, intertwining elements of creasing and creating structural outlines with wider shirt sleeves and narrowed silhouettes. Blurring the gender boundaries, the designer was oscillating between feminine outfits – composed out of cuffed white joggers and a matching top with oversized shoulders – and masculine aspects – where the model was shirtless, wearing only a wool overcoat with wide-leg trousers.

Xenia Gherzan
Photos: Kimberley Larmouth