UNDERAGE autumn/winter 2019 collection presentation for LFW

Characterised by mixed shapes and dark nuances, UNDERAGE’s collection for autumn/winter 2019 reflects the juxtaposition of strange and familiar traits in a similar manner to The Rocky Horror Picture Show. The movie, which is the main inspiration of the brand’s mastermind Ying Shen, continues to have as big an impact on the young people of today as it had on the audiences of the 70s – though it leaves an impression of a different kind. The Beijing-born designer explores cutting-edge and advanced forms against more conventional layouts, focusing especially on the creative take of generation Z.

The outfits bring together simple t-shirts with puffer jackets, smooth jersey trousers and combed knitwear. Velvet is paired with metallic details. There is a hint of crochet, but there are also leather laces tied up the calf. One of the jackets sports a sticker patch with the brand’s name, while an uneven maculated skirt is matched with a fading burgundy pullover. Red, as the set for the presentation also emphasises, is the predominant colour, featured in different shades. Glasses – in the shape of eyelashes, drawn-on grey plexiglass or cut out in electric blue – are common accessories.

Although the traditional designs are pretty recognisable underneath, this collection emanates the boastful and provocative character of pop culture, encompassing extravagant and original combinations that tiptoe between futuristic lines and the longing to break with everything classic.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Kimberley Archer