Drink and dine in style on The Lightship at Haslar Marina in Portsmouth

Perhaps, like me, you had never been to Portsmouth before. It might not be the first place that comes to mind when planning a weekend away, but what if this city has been underrated all this time, just like orange wine or heritage potatoes once were? Undoubtedly, Portsmouth faces strong competition from popular destinations. Oxford, Bath or the Cotswolds are its good-looking, mainstream and Instagram-friendly elder siblings, but they do not have what Portsmouth: access to the Solent and its centuries-long history.

As we approach the station, the salty sea air greets us, accompanied by a fresh breeze and the cries of seagulls piercing through the humidity. A quick ferry ride to the other side of the harbour brings us to Haslar Marina, where among elegant yachts and British Navy heavyweights is The Lightship – a high-end floating restaurant that deserves to be a destination spot.

The venue, a transformed historic 1940s ex-Trinity House light vessel, has been lovingly restored yet retains the spirit of its era. It gently rocks on the water whenever another cruise liner passes by. The mid-deck is a charming, intimate space with an à la carte menu, live music, and an extensive wine list. Meanwhile, the top deck provides panoramic views of the harbour, the slender, sardine-like Spinnaker Tower, and the old medieval town where one of the Victorian era’s greatest novelists was born.

Guests can relax and enjoy cocktails and fresh oysters without choosing between the two decks. You can watch the red sun dissolve into the water’s surface while sipping a strawberry whisky sour on the top deck, then head downstairs to enjoy the sounds of a beautiful woman in a sparkling dress singing into a vintage jazz microphone.

The mid-deck restaurant has an ever-changing seasonal menu designed by chef patron Jamie Fegan, inspired by The Lightship’s surroundings. They use fresh, locally caught fish, shellfish, and seasonal produce. No, they won’t bring you heirloom tomatoes with a drizzle of oil on them, but the menu showcases dishes that let the ingredients speak for themselves: South Coast Halibut with Clams, Lardon & Saffron Cream, Fruit de Mer with Lobster, Langoustines, King Prawns, Oysters, Smoked Salmon & Cockles and Lobster Frites with Hollandaise.

Some courses follow the well-established trend of reinventing classics in a contemporary style. Take the Squid Carbonara: it replaces pasta with squid for a simple yet exciting twist, particularly when paired with Terra de Lobos Sauvignon Blanc. South Coast Scallop with an Angel Hair Filo and Lobster Bisque is angelically delicate, moderately crunchy and harmonic when paired with Ashling Park Still Rosé. British Pork with Nectarine, Cider Cream and Rosti is not mindblowing, but does it have to be? It is soft, delicately sweet and goes perfectly with Bianai Blanco Rioja 2022. The Lightship also boasts an impressive range of drinks from local producers, including English sparkling wine from The Grange, a range of locally produced wines from Ashling Park Estate, Mermaid Gin, Solent Spirit rum and, of course, beer. After a couple of glasses, you might notice the rocking of the ship a bit more.

If you decide to stay overnight, The Creek in Portsmouth Harbour has cosy yet luxurious rooms with views of the bay and the Hampshire coastline. Have dinner at the Lightship, and then take a short walk to your hotel. The path winds past rows of yachts swaying gently on the water. Under the moonlit sky, the curved Spinnaker Tower casts its glow across the bay, and the primal, wonderfully dark aroma of the sea, shells, and driftwood follows you everywhere while you walk to your room on the wooden gangway. 

Visit Portsmouth for the first time or rediscover it through the Lightship – a unique, straightforward, and genuine experience that celebrates the area’s maritime heritage with authenticity and charm.

Elizaveta Kolesova

For further information and to book a table visit The Lightship website here.